

Sam Ruddick
Aliwal
Shoals
In the jeep on the way to the
beach the Boers in the back seat speak to one another in Afrikaans.
Their voices
are deep and round, their laughter is loud, and in spite of the
guttural sound
of the consonants scraping together, there is something lyrical about
the
language.
The dive master is Natal
English, a woman with long brown curls and a strip of freckles
spreading like
the wings of a moth over her cheeks. She meets us by a rubber motor
boat on the
beach, under a bridge spanning an inlet, and as a Zulu unloads our
equipment she
tells us in English not to make sudden moves if we see sharks. The sky
is clear
and the glare reflects off the choppy brown water in flashes. Last
night’s rain
has stirred up the sand. We’re not going to see anything, down there.
But once we have submerged we
can hear the life around us, a pod of dolphins swimming nearby, the
sound of
teeth chattering, an occasional whistle, almost electronic, like video
games in
an arcade, simulating bombs falling, but there’s never any explosion.
Each
whistle ends in silence, leaving only the chatter. I wonder what the
dolphins
are saying, how much they know. I let the current carry me through the
sandy
water along the edge of the shoal.
Soon the air is nearly gone
and we return to the boat. The world seems a larger place, now, more
noble,
perhaps, and as the boat speeds back to shore no one speaks. We have to
jump
off before we hit the beach, and pull the boat up onto the sand. When
the
pilot
shuts the motor down the Boers start joking with one another, their
voices loud
again, but I don’t care what they’re saying, because I think I hear a
faint
sound, an alien sound, one I can’t identify at first, coming closer and
closer,
and when it is so close it is unmistakably brass, the other divers stop
talking
and watch with me as a parade comes into view, marching down the beach
toward
the inlet, Zulus in Western dress, blue and white uniforms, tall hats
strapped
to their heads, a short man with a baton leading a band complete with
trumpets
and trombones and drummers, even a man at the rear, clanging cymbals
in perfect time.
The young Zulu stops unloading our equipment from the boat and smiles as they pass by. But the Boers stand at attention. Red-faced from the sun, with their shocking blond hair, the Afrikaners salute.
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© 2007
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